John Edward Cooper’s Notes

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Monday 15 May 2017

[2017]
[Sunday 14 May 2017]

Tallinn, Estonia

Nordic Hotel Forum, Tallinn, Estonia
TALLINN
Estonia’s capital Tallinn is, quite simply, a time warp. Its fairy tale UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town, a rabbit-warren of atmospheric streets neatly situated below an impressive hilltop Upper Town, offers endless discovery: an ancient castle, a pastel-coloured baroque Parliament building, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. As you enter Tallinn’s Old Town through its landmark 14th century Viru Gate, you’re immediately struck by the heady fragrance of fresh blooms from the plethora of flower shops that line the road ahead. Sitting in the shadows of the church steeples, castle walls and grand cathedrals you’ll happen across a hotchpotch of winding streets and alleyways, colourful buildings and traditional traders. Stroll through Catherine’s Passage, an atmospheric hidden alleyway lined with all manner of artists’ workshops. Once we’ve enjoyed our morning walking tour of the upper and lower Old Town with a local guide, there’s time to seek out various local treasures, wander through the shadows of the city walls, or maybe just a short stop to sip a coffee and watch the world go by.

…We… went down to the lobby for the time Alexander had told us: 9.50am.… Our guide of yesterday, Katrin, was with us again; and she led us out, to the right, then across the wide main road with its tram tracks when the green “Ampelmännchen” appeared, then left and then right, along Viru Street into the old city. At one point the group was gathered together, with Katrin addressing us, when Janet and I heard the characteristic screech of swifts, and I caught a glimpse of them.[i] It was a cool day, and there were a few spots of rain during the tour. The first mediaeval structure to meet our eyes was the remains of the old barbican of Viru Gate, with two round towers. We went between these, and turned right into Müürivahe (“Between the Walls”) Street, just within the city wall, which initially was lined with market stalls.

[i] The first recorded sighting of them back home would not be till 27 May 2017.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:09:04
Viru Gate


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:09:04 (detail)
Viru Gate


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:10:36
Viru Street and the tower of Tallinn Town Hall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:12:30
Müürivahe Street, the city wall, and Hellemann Tower

About 100 yards along there, just past Hellemann Tower, one of the towers punctuating the city wall, we turned left, through an arch in the building, into Catherine’s Alley.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:13:46
Müürivahe Street, the city wall, and Tower behind Monks (Munkadetagune torn)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:14:10
Arch leading to Catherine’s Alley


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:15:10
Catherine’s Alley

Near the end of this, we saw tombstones mounted on the wall, some fragmentary, that had been taken from the old St. Catherine’s Church.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:16:28
Tombstones in Catherine’s Alley


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:16:42
One of the tombstones in Catherine’s Alley


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:17:08
“14th to 15th century tombstones from the St. Catherine’s Dominican Friary in Tallinn”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:17:08 (detail 1)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:17:08 (detail 2)

We emerged into Vene (“Russian”) Street, lined with cafés and restaurants. To the north was the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas; but it was south that we went, turning right at the end and finding ourselves at the south-east corner of Town Hall Square, with the Town Hall itself to our left.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:19:18
Vene Street, looking north towards the Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:21:06
Vene Street, heading south


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:21:18
“Vene” (“Russian”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:24:38
Tallinn Town Hall




Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:24:56
“Old Thomas”, the vane on top of the Town Hall’s tower

On the north side of the square, to the left of №11 (Restoran Balthasar “küüslaugurestoran” (“garlic restaurant”)), was an arch, through which we went, going along an alley called Saiakang, which ended at the north-west corner of the Church of the Holy Spirit.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:26:14
“11, Town Hall Square”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:26:56
11, Town Hall Square: Restoran Balthasar “küüslaugurestoran” (“garlic restaurant”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:28:54
Entering the alley Saiakang through the arch in the Restoran Balthasar


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:29:14
“Saiakang”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:29:32
Saiakang, with the Church of the Holy Spirit at the end


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:31:02
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:31:24
Looking more or less south-west along Pikk Street


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:32:36
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:32:46
Church of the Holy Spirit

To our right, in the little square there, at the intersection of Pikk (“Long”) and Pühavaimu (“Holy Spirit”) streets, was a yellow building of three storeys and an attic, housing the Maiasmokk café, renowned for its production of moulded and decorated marzipan. Ahead of us was the, also yellow, Great Guild hall, with a tall gable decorated with four blind arches.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:33:00
Maiasmokk café


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:33:58
Great Guild hall

Adjoining it to the left was a lower stone building, in which was an arch, through which we passed, going along Börsi käik (“Stock Exchange Alley”). On many of the paving slabs were inscribed key events, with dates, from Estonian history.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:35:12
Entrance to Börsi käik (“Stock Exchange Alley”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:35:44
“Börsi käik”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:37:12
Börsi käik: key events in Estonian history, with dates, inscribed in the pavement


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:37:12 (re-edit 1)
“1816–1819
“Serfdom abolished in Estonia”

One in particular struck me: “1857: The national epic ‘Kalevipoeg’ published for the first time.” I already knew about the Finnish national epic Kalevala, but didn’t know till that point that there was an Estonian one.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:37:12 (re-edit 2)
“1857
“The national epic ‘Kalevipoeg’ published for the first time”

The exit from Börsi käik was also via an archway through a building. We emerged into Lai Street, and turned right, then a few yards along right again into Hobusepea Street.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:38:40
Arch at the far end of Börsi käik


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:41:46
Lai Street: St. Olaf’s Church to the north


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:42:22
“Lai”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:42:48
“Hobusepea”

We stopped outside №12, a 13th century former granary, with a feature typical of such structures: the beam of a hoist in the gable. I fell behind at this point; but I had my radio with me, so I could hear what was going on.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:43:10
“Hobusepea 12”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:43:34
“Hobusepea 12”

The others had gone on to look at a house on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk, with a statue of a cat on one gable end, and a bespectacled man peering over the other gable end; the two gables were at right angles to each other, either side of a round corner tower.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:44:12
House on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:44:12 (detail)
House on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk: detail showing a cat statue on the gable end


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:44:36
Cat statue on the gable end


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:45:44
House on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:46:10
House on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:46:40
House on the corner of Hobusepea and Pikk


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:46:56
Statue of a bespectacled man on the other gable end

We turned right into Pikk Street, passing on our (more or less south-westward) way the Maiasmokk café on our left and the Great Guild hall on our right (i.e. going in the direction shown in the photo “10:31:24”), till we got to Pika jala väravatorn (“Long Leg Gate Tower”). We went through this, and proceeded along Pikk jalg (“Long Leg”) up the gentle slope of the hill Toompea.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:47:48
Pikk Street: Maiasmokk café (off to the left); Great Guild hall (off to the right)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:49:38
Long Leg Gate Tower


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:50:34
Long Leg Gate Tower in the wall bounding the lower city. Behind it is the wall bounding the hill of Toompea.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:53:44
“Pikk jalg” (“Long Leg”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:54:18
Looking back through Long Leg Gate Tower


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:54:30
Looking ahead through Long Leg Gate Tower

Near the top of the hill we passed another tower, Lühikese jala väravatorn (“Short Leg Gate Tower”), with a doorway through which one could reach Lühike jalg (“Short Leg”), a shorter and steeper way up and down Toompea.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:57:48
Doorway to Lühike jalg (“Short Leg”) in Short Leg Gate Tower


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:58:04
“Lühike jalg” sign in front of the Short Leg Gate Tower

Long Leg bore right at this point. Indeed, on the corner of one of the buildings there was a metal sculpture of a long leg in the form of a riding boot with a spur. Long Leg ended at the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Orthodox).


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:58:24
Final part of Pikk jalg (“Long Leg”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 10:59:36
“Pikk jalg”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:00:34
Apses of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

From the end of Long Leg we turned right and went along Piiskopi (“Bishop”) Street to look at St. Mary’s Cathedral (Lutheran). It’s this that gives the hill its name Toompea, from German Domberg (“Cathedral Hill”).


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:01:14
“Piiskopi” (“Bishop [Street]”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:02:32
St. Mary’s Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:02:44
St. Mary’s Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:03:26
St. Mary’s Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:03:46
St. Mary’s Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:05:22
St. Mary’s Cathedral

From the environs of St. Mary’s, we went north-east, perhaps along Kohtu Street, to a viewpoint facing east over the wall that bounded Toompea. Below us was the Long Leg Gate Tower, and beyond that the old city through which we’d earlier walked.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:08:36
Views from Toompea: the former St. Nicholas’ Church, now an art museum and concert hall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:08:54
Views from Toompea: Long Leg Gate Tower and tower of the Town Hall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:09:04
Views from Toompea: Long Leg Gate Tower (right) and Church of the Holy Spirit (centre left)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:09:14
Views from Toompea: Lai Street and St. Olaf’s Church

Back at St. Mary’s Cathedral, in another of her addresses to the group, Katrin told us that all employees pay income tax at a flat rate of 20% of their earnings. Employers also have to pay a tax of 33% of employee earnings. So she, being self-employed, has to pay both! No wonder, I thought, that our Chancellor of the Exchequer Philip Hammond wanted to hike up the tax levied on the self-employed in the UK! (He was forced into a U-turn on that, though.) We now walked south along Toom-Kooli Street to Castle Square.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:21:18
Proceeding along Toom-Kooli Street from St. Mary’s Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:21:34
The Drama School of the Estonian Academy of Music and Theatre, Toom-Kooli Street


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:22:48
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

To our left (east) was the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and to our right (west) the façade of the Estonian Parliament, a wing of Toompea Castle. When we were in Russia, we remarked upon the “unfeasibly large” peaked caps that military officers, etc., wore; but here it was the drainpipes of the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral which seemed “unfeasibly large” (“although others in Tallinn weren’t much smaller!” Janet added).


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:23:42
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:23:56
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:24:06
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:25:12
Parliament of Estonia


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:25:46
“Parliament of Estonia”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:26:28
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral

We skirted by the cathedral, going eastwards, back to the city wall. There was a descent through a park to an opening that had been cut in the curtain wall. On the pavement just before the descent was a busker, accompanying his extremely raucous voice with a guitar. The sound reminded me of Bob Dylan singing Duquesne Whistle (from his 2012 album Tempest), and indeed I started singing that myself.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:28:30
Kiek in de Kök (“Peep into the kitchen”) (right) and Maiden’s Tower (centre)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:28:52
Stable Tower (right) and Short Leg Gate Tower (left)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:30:04
Stable Tower (right), Short Leg Gate Tower (left), and entrance to Danish King’s Garden (centre)

We passed through the breach in the wall, finding ourselves in the Danish King’s Garden. Here and there were three statues of monks, which reminded me of the bronze monk’s habits in the Hostal Los Frailes in Calle Teniente Rey, Havana, Cuba, that we saw on 30 January 2016.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:34:26
Danish King’s Garden


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:34:46
Sign pointing to “Lühike jalg” (“Short Leg”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:35:02
Monk sculpture in the Danish King’s Garden, and (background:) the former St. Nicholas’ Church

We turned left, passing through a gate with a decorated open lunette in the arch, topped with a triangular pediment with a sign in it: “Lühikese jala väravatorn (Estonian: “Short Leg Gate Tower”); and “Hortus musicus” (Latin: “Musical Garden”), whatever or wherever that was supposed to be! Just afterwards, we passed the Short Leg Gate Tower, with the other end of the passage through it from Long Leg that we’d passed by earlier. We descended the steep Short Leg to the lower town.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:35:12
Gate to Short Leg: “Lühikese jala väravatorn” (Estonian: “Short Leg Gate Tower”); “Hortus musicus” (Latin: “Musical garden”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:35:52
Descending Short Leg


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:37:00
Descending Short Leg


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:37:34
Looking back up Short Leg to Short Leg Gate Tower

Just to the right of us was the former St. Nicholas’ Church, now a branch of the Art Museum of Estonia and also used as a concert hall. At the far end of that was where the tour ended, after nearly two hours.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:39:12
St. Nicholas’ Church


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:39:42
St. Nicholas’ Church


Monday 15 May 2017 — 11:43:34
St. Nicholas’ Church

From there Janet and I went to look for somewhere to have a drink. We wandered around one or two streets and found a café, where I had a bottled beer, 0.5ℓ, A. Le Coq (an Estonian brewery) Porter, 6.5% a.b.v. I think Janet had a Coke Zero.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 12:15:50
In a café in old Tallinn

It was a pleasant location, so we looked at the menu: I chose a duck stir-fry with glass noodles, and Janet had a Caesar salad, “without the Caesar,” as she put it. I had a second Porter, and finished with a coffee. We were in there for more than 1½ hours. We headed back, more or less the way we’d come, to visit the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, passing St. Nicholas’ Church and going up Short Leg. We saw the Peppersack restaurant on the way, the converted mediaeval warehouse where we’d had dinner the previous night, and farther along another converted warehouse with interesting religious icons painted in round recesses in the wall. There was a busker playing a cello on the other side of the street east of St. Nicholas’ Church.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:47:06
The Peppersack, a converted warehouse in Vana turg (“Old Market”) street


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:50:46
Converted warehouse with religious icons painted in round recesses in the wall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:50:04
…religious icons painted in round recesses in the wall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:50:18
…religious icons painted in round recesses in the wall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:52:58
St. Nicholas’ Church


Monday 15 May 2017 — 13:53:58
Solo cellist busking on Harju Street

We passed back through the gate at the top of Short Leg. On this side of the pediment, the sign read: “Neitsitorn, muuseum • kohvik” (“Maiden’s Tower, museum • café”); and “Taani kuninga aed” (“Danish King’s Garden”). We went on through the Danish King’s Garden, passed “Duquesne Dylan” still busking raucously, and entered the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. It had three iconostases. Photography wasn’t allowed in there, but we bought a picture postcard of the interior.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:01:38
The other side of the gate of “11:35:12”: “Neitsitorn, muuseum • kohvik” (“Maiden’s Tower, museum • café”); “Taani kuninga aed” (“Danish King’s Garden”)


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:02:16
Danish King’s Garden


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:03:04
“Danish King’s Garden”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:03:58
Apses of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:06:52
Façade of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, viewed from Castle Square


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:07:26
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral: mosaic in the pediment of the entrance


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:07:50
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral: mosaic in the pediment above the entrance


Monday 15 May 2017
Postcard, bought in Alexander Nevsky Cathedral


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:23:12
Parliament of Estonia


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:23:22
Parliament of Estonia

We went in the Domberg bar/restaurant in nearby Piiskopi Street; and I had a coffee and Janet a Coke Zero, each €2.50 (14:25:11, according to the till receipt).


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:44:24
Domberg, Piiskopi 1, 10130 Toompea, Tallinn, Estonia

I wanted to investigate the passage through the Short Leg Gate Tower, so we went to it along Long Leg, cut through it, and descended along Short Leg.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:46:44
Short Leg Gate Tower


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:47:28
Passage through Short Leg Gate Tower to Short Leg


Monday 15 May 2017 — 14:47:54
Short Leg

We visited a shop in Short Leg, Allikamaja Käsitöö. Janet had wanted some amber earrings when we were in Russia, but didn’t buy any; here she found some, and I helped her to select one out of two pairs to buy. I also chose one of a selection of ceramic bells as a memento to go on our souvenir cabinet back home. Together, they cost €36.65.


Monday 26 June 2017 — 14:48:00
Ceramic bell on our souvenir cabinet back home

We went to visit the Church of the Holy Spirit, I’m not sure by what route, for we approached it from the east; a more direct way would have given an approach from the south or the west.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:17:28
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:19:00
Church of the Holy Spirit

Entry tickets were €1.50 each. We were in there for an hour.





Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:22:52
Church of the Holy Spirit

We went up a spiral staircase to the gallery on the left. I took photos of the modern stained-glass windows on that side.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:24:06
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:25:14
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:26:10
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:26:44
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:27:00
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:27:12
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:29:00
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:29:00 (re-edit)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:29:12
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:30:42
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:30:42 (re-edit)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:30:56
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:31:48
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:31:48 (re-edit 1)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:31:48 (re-edit 2)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:31:58
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:32:46
Church of the Holy Spirit

Then after I’d taken photos down in the nave, we went up the similar spiral staircase (though at the forward end of the gallery not the rear) to the right gallery. Here, there were remnants on display of stained-glass windows from the 17th and 19th centuries.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:35:34
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:37:08
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:37:42
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:38:06
Church of the Holy Spirit
The white ensign hangs over a commemorative plaque, put up in memory of British sailors who lost their lives during the British campaign in the Baltic (1918–1919).


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:38:48
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:39:30
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:42:46
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:43:42
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:43:52
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:44:12
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:44:12 (edit 1)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:44:12 (edit 2)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:44:34
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:46:08
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:47:12
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:47:44
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:48:14
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting with the small coat of arms of the town.
Second half of the 19th century.
Initially located on the westernmost window of the south nave.”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:48:32
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting with the great coat of arms of the town.
Second half of the 19th century. The composition of the central field — acanthus mantling with three crowned golden lions en passant — has not survived.
Initially located on the westernmost window of the south nave. (?)”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:50:18
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting Jurgen Tuchi. 1606.
Early 17th century.
Initially located on the westernmost window in the north nave.”


Monday 15 May 2017 — postcard
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting Jurgen Tuchi. 1606.
Early 17th century.
Initially located on the westernmost window in the north nave.”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:50:42
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting Jost Timmerman. Mid-17th century.
Initially located on the second westernmost window in the north nave.”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:51:42
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting with Girard de Soucanton’s coat of arms.
Last quarter of the 19th century.
Initially located on the east window of the south nave. (?)”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:52:30
Church of the Holy Spirit
“Glass-painting Burgomaster Woldemar Mayer. 1876.
Last quarter of the 19th century.
Initially located on the east window of the south nave.”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:53:22
Church of the Holy Spirit

After that I went down, and looked around the nave, at an old weather-vane, dated “1688” lying on the floor, and a broken bell next to it. I had a closer look at the pulpit and the canopy over it, which had a dove figure as the descending Holy Spirit under it.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:56:22
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:57:18
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:57:48
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:58:22
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:58:34
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 15:59:36
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:00:00
Church of the Holy Spirit

I returned, after another look around, to examine in more detail the carvings of the pulpit: high-relief figures around it, and low-relief panels below the handrail of its steps. It was quite coincidental that, just as yesterday in Kadriorg Palace, a keyboard instrument was being tuned, this time a harpsichord.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:02:16
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:02:16 (edit 1)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:02:16 (edit 2)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:04:08
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:04:52
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:05:24
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:06:24
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:06:24 (edit)
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:07:20
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:07:48
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:08:48
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:09:40
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:10:30
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:10:44
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:11:14
Church of the Holy Spirit


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:17:42
Estonian:
“Arhitektuurimälestis
Pühavaimu kirik
XIV s.”
“Architectural monument
Church of the Holy Spirit
XIV c.”
Russian:
«XIV в.
Памятник архитектуры
Церковь Пюхавайму»
“XIV c.
Architectural monument
Church of Pühavaimu”


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:18:42
Great Guild hall


Monday 15 May 2017 — 16:19:26
Great Guild hall

We looked in the Maiasmokk café, and Janet bought a big slab of artisan marzipan. That just about exhausted our supply of ready cash, so we went back to the hotel, where there were reserves in the safe. The sun had come out, and it was warmer than earlier. After ca.½-hour there, we headed back to the old city, and spent a long time wandering around. A long time! We passed the Peppersack, and the nearby, very similar-themed Olde Hansa. Both a bit loud — and, anyway, we did the “mediaeval” thing yesterday! There were posh restaurants and burger joints, Italian restaurants, Indian and Japanese. We were getting fed up with going round in circles, almost, when after we came across and entered an unimposing establishment offering local fare down a few stairs on the east side of Town Hall Square. We were the only ones there at first, but later two women came in. That was something we noticed a lot in these countries: pairs of women friends eating in restaurants.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 19:28:12
Restaurant Liisu Juures


Monday 15 May 2017 — 19:28:42
Restaurant Liisu Juures

I had pea soup, a huge bowlful, a pint or more; then pork in a cream sauce with sauerkraut and boiled potatoes which I struggled to eat because of the volume of soup I’d consumed. Janet had salmon with boiled potatoes, celery, turnip and carrots. There was rye bread in a basket. I had a strong, dark beer by Saku, an Estonian brewery, perhaps two. The bill was only €43.30.


Monday 15 May 2017 — 19:44:00
Restaurant Liisu Juures

We were back at the hotel by ca.8pm. Janet finished as much of the packing as possible, showered, etc. I turned on the computer and checked e-mail accounts (20:10).… Did this and that, including having a session on Facebook (to 20:55). Transferred 167 photos, taken during the day, from my camera to the WD Elements HDD (21:02–21:10). Looked through them using Windows Photo Viewer, rotating 87 that needed it (21:11–21:24).… We were in bed not long after 10pm.

[Tuesday 16 May 2017]



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